Just as not every woman can be a fashion model, nor every man a professional athlete, not every European city can boast the charm of famous destinations like Amsterdam, Munich, Paris, Vienna, Rome, or Dubrovnik. When I first started researching Tirana, I encountered a string of negative descriptors: dirty, chaotic, dull, and best to skip. But I’ve never been one to let someone else’s opinion shape mine. I prefer to let a city speak for itself. What I found in Tirana was a place full of life, energy, colour, and unexpected kindness.

Like all large cities, Tirana has its rough edges, making it easy to form stereotypes. But as soon as you start to feel the city’s rhythm and scratch beneath the surface, those stereotypes dissolve faster than ice cream on a hot Tirana afternoon.

If I had to describe Tirana’s appeal, I’d say it’s an “acquired taste.” This is evident in its architecture. If you’ve travelled through former socialist countries or ex-Soviet states, you’ll recognize the stark, gray concrete apartment blocks that dominate the landscape. Unfortunately, Tirana shares this gritty aesthetic. However, in the late 1990s and early 2000s, the then-mayor—now Albania’s prime minister—embarked on a mission to transform the city and distinguish it from other gray Eastern European capitals.

The solution? Brighten the city with bold, colourful murals and pastel-painted buildings. Some criticized this makeover as gimmicky and over-the-top, but I see it as a brilliant, creative fix. What else could be done without demolishing thousands of apartment blocks and displacing residents? Tirana made the most of the cards it was dealt—“turning chicken shit into chicken salad,” as the saying goes.

A Café Culture to Savor

If admiring pastel buildings and towering murals isn’t your thing, Tirana’s café scene might win you. For every dreary concrete block, there’s a cozy café waiting to serve you. Whether you’re in the mood for a macchiato, espresso, or Turkish coffee—or something fancier like a cappuccino arabica—you’ll be spoiled for choice.

Unlike in cities like Amsterdam, indulging in a treat here won’t break the bank. I paid just 510 LEK (about €4.30) for a cappuccino and a bowl of dark chocolate ice cream—a small luxury without the guilt.

Delicious Food on Every Corner

Tirana’s food scene is another highlight you shouldn’t miss. No matter what you crave, this city delivers. If you’re a fan of Greek street food, you’ll find fast food joints on nearly every block. But don’t let the term “fast food” fool you—no McDonald’s or Taco Bell here. Tirana’s street food is fresh, delicious, and healthy.

My favourite is sullage—the Albanian take on Greek souvlaki (gyros). This mouthwatering dish features pita bread fried in olive oil, stuffed with chicken or pork fresh greens, and slathered in tzatziki sauce, topped with French fries. Another must-try is byrek (or burek in other Balkan countries). This flaky, savoury pie is usually filled with cheese, meat, or spinach. But don’t even think about having a break without a side of yogurt or sour milk—it’s the perfect complement. And the best part? These culinary treats rarely cost more than €3.

Dining and Shopping at Tirana Castle

For a more upscale dining experience, head to Tirana Castle in the city center. This beautifully restored Byzantine fortress offers a variety of restaurants and cafés catering to every palate. Whether after a quick bite or a fine dining experience, you’ll find it all within or around the castle’s ancient walls.

Tirana Castle isn’t just about food; it’s also a hub for shopping. Outside the fortress’s six-meter-high walls, you’ll find low-budget fashion stores like DeFacto and Waikiki, offering fast fashion similar to H&M. If you’re looking for something more high-end, boutiques are scattered throughout the city’s streets. And for luxury lovers, the center is home to designer shops selling everything from handbags and watches to that perfect outfit you’ve been searching for. Don’t forget the Old Bazaar, where you can score vintage-style souvenirs and unique trinkets.

Dive into History at Bunk’Art and Beyond

If you don't like food, coffee, and shopping, Tirana’s historical sites are worth exploring. Start with Bunk’Art 1 and Bunk’Art 2, two former Cold War bunkers that have been converted into museums. These exhibits provide a glimpse into life under Enver Hoxha’s brutal communist regime and Albania’s isolation from the rest of the world until the 1990s.

Bunk’Art 2 is conveniently located near Skanderbeg Square, while Bunk’Art 1 is a few kilometres outside the city center—easily accessible by taxi. The National History Museum, also near Skanderbeg Square, is another must-see. It showcases Albania’s history from ancient times to the present.

If you’re craving sun and sea, hop on a bus or grab a taxi to the coastal city of Durrës, located 36 kilometres west of Tirana. Durrës is Albania’s second-largest city and offers beautiful beaches along the Adriatic coast.

For mountain lovers, the Dajti Express Cable Car is the perfect escape. This scenic ride takes you to the breathtaking mountains surrounding the capital. The 15-minute cable car journey costs around €8 and operates daily—except on Tuesdays. For a full day of adventure, pair your cable car trip with a visit to Bunk’Art 1, just a kilometre away.

The Addictive Charm of Tirana

Whether you’re browsing the Old Bazaar, sipping coffee for hours at a café, or wandering the colourful streets. At the same time, the afternoon call to prayer echoes across the concrete skyline; Tirana has a way of pulling you in.

It may not dazzle you at first glance like some other European cities but give it time, and you’ll uncover a charm that’s hard to resist. Once you’ve experienced Tirana’s unique blend of culture, history, and warmth, there’s no going back. Consider yourself warned.